Wiring is critical to the ease of use and reliability of the final installation. This page provides you with a relatively comprehensive checklist and some tips just in case you have the courage to undertake this task on your own.

Installations may need rework not because there were poorly done but because a wire was forgotten somewhere along the way.  So thinking through what you need before you start will save days (if not weeks) of rework.

Prior to wiring, we recommend that you have a clear idea of the routes (in wiring jargon the trunking) that you will use. In some instances (for instance outdoor sensors & equipment) you may want just to have the trunking between the wiring closet and the relevant entry point on the house boundary ready to lay the wire but not the wire itself as it may be some time before the wire can be buried. Where possible make sure that ducts and trunking not only accommodates the planned amount of wiring but also additional wiring as result of upgrades and enhancements.

Control cables:

Which wire:

These are the low voltage cables used to communicate with sensors, actuators and control equipment. The type of wire depends on the control panel requirements. Most systems today use 8-core CAT5 (or better CAT5e) but please check installation guide / manufacturers recommendations. Some security sensors use 4-core or 6-core 0.2mm cable but it may be possible to use CAT5e anyway (which would simplify the installation).

Where to wire:

Infrared distribution cables:

Which wire:

Infrared remote controls (such as Phillips Pronto family) provide a cost effective way to supply wireless control panels for simple requirements (no feedback) and thus most automation projects provide the option to install infrared receivers at key points. CAT5 or CAT5e cable is normally used.

Where to wire:

Lighting/electric cable:

Which wire:

The main power is normally supplied by 1.5mm² 3 core main electric (copper) wire. But note that are many light control systems (see Lighting ) and you may need to do some research before understanding your wiring requirements. Low voltage lighting has different wiring requirements.

Whatever you do, it is advisable to keep video/network/control cables as far as possible from power circuits, transformers (which may leak) and fluorescent lighting - experts do not agree but it is generally recommended a minimum of 2ft-4ft.  Also, you will want to house the consumer unit / rack in a different location from your control closet. Also, avoid transformers, if at all possible (generate noise and interference).  Otherwise - place them away from living areas and plan the wire routes.

Where to wire:

Security cable:

Which wire:

Security systems normally used 6-core 0.2mm cable but this requirement can be normally covered with CAT5e cable, thus giving you the flexibility to network other equipment at a later stage.

Where to wire:

Please refer to control cabling but also check the installation guide of the system being used (which in itself will depend on the scale and capabilities of your installation).  See also our page on Security.

Networking cable:

Which wire:

Networking is standardized to CAT5e (and unlikely in residences, fibre). CAT5e supports 10Mbps, 100Mbps and 1000Mbps (1Gbps) data speeds. CAT6 cable is a new standard which in due course will allow data transfers speeds of up to 4Gbps.

Where to wire:

Telephone / Intercom / Door Entry cable

Which wire:

Telephone cable is 8-core CAT3 type but we suggest you use CAT5e. This will allow the connection to be reuse as network connection if later required.

Four Audio/Video door entry, check the specifications of the desired system. At minimum install two 8-core screened twisted pair (STP) cables. But note that you may require more cables (e.g. coax RG59, see below) based on the system implemented.

Where to wire:

Video cable

Which wire:

While we expect the need for video coax cable to decrease over the next few years as digital video usage becomes widespread but right now a lot of cost effective equipment still expects analog video and some coax cable will be unavoidable.

There are various types of coax cable the "50ohm" cable (RG58), the "75ohm" cable (RG59, RG6, CT100, CT125) and the rarer "120ohm" cable. The 50/75/120 ohm refers to the impedance for which the cable has been balanced - for residential and commercial installations 75ohm cable is used.

Within each impedance rating there are different "attenuation" qualities. This describes how well the high frequency signal travels in the cable. For instance at 860MHz/100m high quality CT100 attenuates 19dB, CT125 15dB and the expensive CT167 12dB. And double or quad shielding - which provides protection against the always present electromagnetic interference.

Another way to measure cable quality is to record maximum lengths recommended for each cable:

Finally, if you use a 75ohm cable - make sure that all other equipment (terminators, distributors, amplifiers terminals, etc.) is also optimised for 75ohms.

Where to wire:

Speaker cable:

Which wire:

Speaker cable varies in terms of characteristics and price - sometimes exceeding £1000 per meter! and it is possible to make a whole career out of listening to the nuances of the different speaker cables. For whole-house sound a robust low impedance cable will typically suffice.

The cable is laid between the chosen locations for the speakers (and leave some extra wire, just in case you may want to move the speaker later on) and the location of the amplifier. Typically a multi zone amplifier.

Where to wire:

"Structured wiring" implies that all wires go to one point (referred typically as Node Zero). This configuration provides maximum flexibility as it pretty much allows you to connect any piece of equipment to any other. However, it does lend itself to create thick bundles of wires at or near node zero which may be difficult to wire and manage. Or you may simply not have the space.